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A car interior gets dirty differently from a home. Crumbs, drinks, dust from the vents and damp off shoes all build up in a small space — and in a sealed cabin any smell is noticeable immediately. We clean car upholstery by hot water extraction, the same method we use on furniture.
It is the most delicate part of the interior. The fabric is glued to foam, and too much water dissolves the adhesive, causing it to sag and ripple — damage that is effectively irreversible without replacing the whole headlining. So we clean it with minimal moisture, by surface method rather than extraction.
Leather upholstery is not extraction-cleaned. It needs a dedicated product and conditioning, otherwise it dries out and cracks. If the car has leather or synthetic leather, mention it when booking, as it changes both scope and time.
The interior stays damp for a few hours afterwards. The car should sit with the windows slightly open in a ventilated spot. Shutting a wet cabin overnight ends in a musty smell — which is why this is best booked for the morning.
Quoted after looking at the car: it depends on the size of the interior, the scope and how dirty it is. We give the price before starting.
Usually a few hours for the full scope. Seats alone are noticeably quicker than a whole interior including headlining and boot.
Once it is dry, usually after a few hours of ventilation. Driving with a wet interior and the windows shut encourages a damp smell.
Cleaning the upholstery reduces it markedly. Where the smell has soaked into the headlining and ventilation, only follow-up ozone treatment tends to finish the job.
Yes, but by a different process — cleaning and conditioning rather than extraction.
Yes. Hair woven into the fabric is lifted mechanically first, as extraction alone will not pull it out.